BLOW ROOM CALCULATIONS

OBJECTIVE OF BLOW ROOM: 

                       The main objectives of blow room are opening , cleaning  and  blending.


Calculation involves in this process:


i  - Lap length (yards): lap weight (k.g) x 16 x 2.2046
                                                  oz/yards

ii - Oz / yards : lap weight ( k.g ) x 1000  
                          lap length ( yrds ) x 28.35

iii- Lap Hanks :                16         
                                840 x oz/yards
 
iv - Yards / min :   shall roll dia ( m.m ) x r.p.m x 3.141
                                                  25.4  x  36

v  - Lap Completion Time ( min ) : Total lap length (yrds)   
                                                                   yards / min

vi - Production in lbs/shift :
                                      shall roll r.p.m  x dia(inches) x 3.141
                                                        lap hanks  x  63



          

SHORT INTRODUCTION ON SPINNING TECHNOLOGY

SPINNING IS THE PROCESS WHICH STARTS FROM FIBRE AS A RAW MATERIAL  AND ENDED WITH THE PREPARATION OF YARN AS A PRODUCT.SPINNING CONSIST OF TWO TYPES,WHICH ARE NAMED AS BELOW:

- RING SPINNING .
- OPEN END SPINNING.

SPINNING MILLS  CONSIST OF FOLLOWING PROCESS:
RING SPINNING:                                     OPEN END SPINNING:
- BLOW ROOM                                           - BLOW ROOM
- CARDING                                                  - CARDING

- DRAWING                                                 - DRAWING
- COMBERS                                              - AUTOCORO
- SIMPLEX
- RING
- AUTO CONE

SOME PICTURES OF SPINNING PROCESS:


                                                                  BLOW ROOM DEPARTMENT
TRUTZSCHLER

        CARD MACHINES
              RIETER C - 60

            



                              DRAWING PROCESS
                                   RIETER RSB D-35

                        COMBER PROCESS
                         HOWA MACHINES

                       SIMPLEX DEPARTMENT
                             HOWA MACHINES 

                  RING SPINNING MACHINES
                           F - 1520 COMPACT

                  AUTO CONE MACHINES
                    SCHLAFHORST - 338

        SPECIAL THANKS TO:
                             QUETTA TEXTILE MILLS.

WOOL FIBRE

Wool production and use dates back approximately 10,000 years in Asia Minor. People living in the Mesopotamian Plain at that time used sheep for three basic human needs: food, clothing and shelter. As spinning and weaving skills developed woollens became a greater part of people's lives. The warmth of wool clothing and the mobility of sheep allowed people to spread civilisation beyond the warm climate of the Mesopotamia. Between 3000-1000 BC the Persians, Greeks and Romans distributed sheep and wool throughout Europe. The Romans took sheep everywhere they built their Empire including the British Isles. From here the British took sheep to all their colonies.

Fibre Structure

Wool is different to other fibres because of its chemical structure. This chemical structure influences its texture, elasticity, staple and crimp formation. Wool is a protein fibre, composed of more than 20 amino acids. These amino acids form protein polymers. Wool also contains small amounts of fat, calcium and sodium.

Types of Wool Yarn

There are two types of wool yarn – woollens and worsteds.
Woolens: Woolens is a general term describing various fabrics woven from woollen yarn that is spun from the shorter wool fibres. These shorter fibres are not combed to lie flat as in the worsted yarn. This results in soft surface textures and finishes and the weave of individual yarns does not show as clearly as in worsted fabrics.
Worsteds: Worsted is a general term for fabrics woven from worsted yarns that contain longer fibres spun from combed wool. Worsted wool refers to tightly woven, smooth, clear finished goods in a variety of twill and other stronger weaves.
Worsteds undergo several processes:

• Scouring – Washed to remove dust, suint (sweat) and wool wax.
• Carding – Rolled with a roller that is covered with teeth tease apart the staples of wool, laying the fibres nearly parallel to form a soft rope called a 'sliver'.
• Combing – Combed to separate short from long fibres, ensuring that the long fibres are laid parallel to produce a combed sliver called a 'top'.
• Drawing – Drawing out of tops into the thickness of one, to thoroughly blend the wool and ensure evenness or regularity of the resulting 'roving'.
• Finisher drawing – Drawing to reduce the roving thickness to suit the spinning operation and further improve evenness.
• Spinning – Inserting twist into the yarn to give strength to the finished yarn.

HEMP FIBRE

Hemp production is easy to achieve organically. Therefore many of the ecological problems in chemical farming of other fibres are obviated. Hemp quickly grows up to 5 metres in height with dense foliage which blocks weed growth. This means herbicides are not needed and the field is weed free for the next crop. Unlike cotton hemp does not have a high water requirement. The hemp plant has a deep tap root system which enables the plant ot take advantage of deep subsoil moisture, thus requiring little or no irrigation.

Hemp has been produced for thousands of years as a source of fibre for paper, cloth, sails/canvas and building materials. Natural fibre from the hemp stalk is extremely durable and can be used in the production of textiles, clothing, canvas, rope, cordage, archival grade paper, paper, and construction materials.

There are two principal types of fibres in hemp – bast or long fibres and hurds or inner short fibre. Traditionally hemp has been grown for its valuable and versatile high quality bast fibres. Bast fibres account for 20-30 percent of the stalk (depending on the seed variety, and planting density). There are two types of bast fibres:

·     primary bast fibres. Primary bast fibres make up approximately 70 percent of the fibres and are long, high in cellulose and low in lignin. Primary bast fibres are the most valuable part of the stalk, and are generally considered to be among the strongest plant fibres known.

·     secondary bast fibres. Secondary bast fibres make up the remaining 30 percent of the bast fibres and are medium in length and higher in lignin. They are less valuable and become more prevalent when the hemp plants are grown less densely, making shorter fatter stalks since they do not have to compete for light.

The production or extraction of the primary bast fibres has traditionally been a very labour intensive process, but recently an alternative fibre separation process has been developed using technologies such as ultrasound and steam explosion, which are much less labour intensive. Once separated the bast fibres are ready for spinning and weaving into textiles, or for pulping into high quality pulp. Bast fibres are ideal for specialised paper products such as industrial filters, currency paper, tea bags or cigarette paper.

Hurds are the short fibred inner woody core of the hemp plant. They comprise 70-80 percent of the stalk and are composed of libriform fibres which are high in lignin. Traditionally hurds have been considered waste as they are the by-product from bast extraction. The hurds are 50-77 pecent cellulose making them ideal for paper making. One acre of hemp can replace 4.1 acres of trees for pulp production. Although the fibres are shorter than bast fibres they are suitable for a range of products such as rayon, biomass fuel, cellophane, food additives, industrial fabrication materials and newsprint pulp.

SISAL FIBRE

Sisal is a plant of the agave family Agave sisalina. The stalk grows to about one metre in height. The fibre is contained in the lance-shaped leaves that grow out from the stalk in a dense rosette. The sisal plant produces approximately three hundred leaves throughout its productive period.
To extract the fibre the leaves are crushed and the pulp scraped from the fibre. This is then washed and dried. The sisal fibre strands are usually creamy white in colour.
When harvested, the sisal fibre is coarse and relatively inflexible. The process of turning these fibres into silky fabric involves a high degree of beating and pulping. The result is a fabric that is light enough to be worn in the hottest weather. It is able to be woven into nearly invisible sheers and is used as a replacement for silk. Because of the amount of work to process the sisal into this sheer fabric its value is very high. Despite these excellent qualities, sisal is most commonly used for more practical products eg for cordage because of its strength, durability, ability to stretch and its resistance to deterioration in salt water. Other common products are sisal twine, mattings, rugs, and brushes.
In recent years, China has maintained approximately 12,000 hectares of sisal production. This area produces around 40,000 tonnes of fibres. This level of production means that China accounts for approximately 11-13 percent of total world production. Sisal products of Chinese origin first entered the world market in the late 1970s.

FLAX

Flax is also known as linen. The flax plant yields the fibres for linen cloth; the short fibres not needed for cloth production can be used to make paper. Linen has been used for thousands of years. The earliest traces of its use have been dated as far back as 8,000 BC. Flax is thought to have originated in the Mediterranean region of Europe, the Swiss Lake Dweller People of the Stone Age apparently produced flax for fibre and seed. Mummies in Egyptian graves dating back 6,000 years have been found wrapped in linen wraps. In the USA the early colonists grew flax for home use. Commercial production of flax fibre began there in 1753.
Currently the major flax fibre producing countries are France (64,000 tons annually), China (31,000 tons), Belgium (15,300 tons), Holland (4,600 tons).
The fibre is obtained from the stalk of the flax plant - Linum Usitatissimum. This plant grows 80 - 120 cms high with few branches and small flowers. The stems are composed of 70 percent cellulose. Prior to fibre harvesting, the flax plants are first de-seeded then retting or separating the straw or bark for the fibre occurs. The flax is then rolled and stored for use. Flax plants are pulled from the ground rather than cut, in order to retain the full length of the fibres, and to prevent fibre discoloration.
Some of the benefits of linen are that it is allergy-free, absorbs humidity and allows the skin to breathe, antistatic, antibacterial and low elasticity (fabrics don't deform). Linen can be washed many times without alteration. It is able to absorb up to 20 times its weight in moisture before it feels damp.
Common uses for linen include:

• Table wear
• Suiting
• Clothing apparel
• Surgical thread
• Sewing thread
• Decorative fabrics
• Bed linen
• Kitchen towels
• High quality papers
• Handkerchiefs
• Draperies
• Upholstery
• Wall coverings
• Artists canvases
• Luggage fabrics
• Panelling
• Insulation, filtration
• Light aviation use (fabrics)
• Reinforced plastics and composites

ABACA FIBRE.

Also known as 'Manila hemp,' the abaca plant is actually a small, inedible species of banana, Musa textilis. This plant is grown mostly on small, multi-crop farms in the Philippines where there are som 200 varieties in cultivation. The strong fibers of the stalk are stripped off primarily to make rope, but many Filipinos also make cloth of it; the beautiful clothing of the Bagobo (considered some of the most colourful people in the Philippines), for instance, is woven of abaca. Abaca is also grown in Ecuador where, in contrast to the Philippines, is grown on large estates. It makes an extremely durable fabric, although it is not nearly as soft as cotton.

RAMIE FIBRE

Ramie (pronounced Ray-me) is one of the oldest vegetable fibers and has been used for thousands of years. It was used in mummy cloths in Egypt during the period 5000 - 3000 BC, and has been grown in China for many centuries.
Ramie (Boehmeria nivea), commonly known as China grass, white ramie, green ramie and rhea, is one of the group referred to as the bast fiber crops. The ramie plant is a hardy perennial belonging to the Urticaceae or Nettle family, which can be harvested up to 6 times a year. It produces a large number of unbranched stems from underground rhizomes and has a crop life from 6 to 20 years. The fibres need chemical treatment to remove the gums and pectins found in the bark.
The process of transforming the ramie fibres into fabric is similar to the process used for manufacturing linen from flax. The true ramie or 'China Grass' is also known as 'white ramie' and is the Chinese cultivated plant. It has large heart shaped, crenate leaves covered on the underside with white hairs that give it a silvery appearance. Boehmeria nivea var. tenacissima, is believed to have originated in the Malay Peninusula and is known as 'green ramie' or 'rhea'. Green ramie has smaller leaves than true ramie and is better suited to tropical climates.
The fibre is very fine like silk, and being naturally white in colour does not need bleaching.
Long before cotton was introduced in the Far East, it was used for Chinese burial shrouds over 2,000 years ago. Ramie's popularity increased in the mid 1980s with a fashion emphasis on natural fibres.
Chemically ramie is classified as a cellulose fibre, just as cotton, linen, and rayon. The leading global producers of ramie are China, Taiwan, Korea, the Philippines and Brazil. Ramie is often blended with cotton to make woven and knit fabrics that resemble fine linen to coarse canvas. Ramie is commonly used in clothing, tablecloths, napkins and handkerchiefs. It is often blended with cotton in knit sweaters. Outside the clothing industry, ramie is used in fish nets, canvas, upholstery fabrics, straw hats and fire hoses.
Within the clothing and textile industry ramie has the following advantages and disadvantages:
Advantages of Ramie

• Resistant to bacteria, mildew, alkalis, rotting, light and insect attack.
• Extremely absorbent (this makes it comfortable to wear)
• Dyes fairly easy.
• Natural stain resistance.
• Increases in strength when wet.

BAMBOO

Bamboo fibre is a cellulose fibre extracted or fabricated from natural bamboo (and possibly other additives) and is made from (or in the case of material fabrication, is) the pulp of bamboo plants. It is usually not made from the fibres of the plant, but is a synthetic viscose made from bamboo cellulose.
Bamboo has gained popularity as a "green" fibre. Manufacturers tout the fact that bamboo can be cultivated quickly, can be used as a cash crop to develop impoverished regions of the third world, and is a natural fibre (as opposed to popular synthetics like polyester) whose cultivation results in a decrease in greenhouse gases.^[1]
There may be environmental problems with the cultivation of land expressly for bamboo ^[2] and the use of harsh chemicals to turn bamboo into usable fibre for clothing.^[3]

KENAF FIBRE

Kenaf fibre comes from Hibiscus cannabinus L which is similar in appearance to the hemp plant but of a different botanical family. Like hemp, kenaf grows quickly to reach a height of 3-4 metres within six months, yielding 5-10 tons of dry fibre per acre. Kenaf grows well anywhere gotton grows, but needs much less water and far less pesticides. It is hardy being resistant ot the effects of strong winds and drought. Kenaf, like hemp, is a diverse fibre, and unlike hemp does not carry the stigma of marijuana.
Most parts of the kenaf plant have a use. Kenaf is useful as a forge crop for livestock. The bast fibre is used for cordage, the stalks are burned for fuel and the leaves are consumed as a vegetable.; Kenaf can also be processed into rope, paper and building materials.
A new high-end use for kenaf has been identified. When kenaf is blended with cotton it can be made into fabric and yarn. These fabrics are aesthetically pleasing and soft to the touch. The lightweight blend fabric has a linen look.

COTTON

Cotton (Latin: "Gossypium hirsutum") is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll around the seeds of the cotton plant (plants of the genus Gossypium). The plant is a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, Africa, India, and Pakistan. The fiber most often is spun into yarntextile, which is the most widely used natural-fiber cloth in clothing today. The English name derives from the Arabic (al) qutn قُطْن , which began to be used circa 1400.^[1] The botanical purpose of cotton fiber is to aid in seed-dispersal. or thread and used to make a soft, breathable

FIBRE THE RAW MATERIAL FOR SPINNING PROCESS.

NATURAL PLANT AND ANIMAL FIBRE:

Until comparatively recent times we relied on natural fibres to produce our clothes, cloths, carpets, cordage, paper, ships sails, and insulation and building materials. The use of natural fibres, both plant and animal, to meet our needs goes back thousands of years and plays a significant role in history. In the history of natural fibres, one of the oldest recorded uses of plant fibre for fabrics is the use of hemp which was already being cultivated in China in 2800BC.
In the last century there has been a turn away from natural fibres towards synthetic materials, mostly derived from petrochemicals. This change was a result of the technological revolution and the short term economic advantages of synthetics.
We are now seeing a growing movement away from petrochemical based fibres back to natural fibres. There are three reasons for this. Petrochemical based fibre production has undergone continuing rising costs. Synthetic fibres rely on precious non-renewable resources and incurs environmental costs in their production. Petrochemical based products pose a health risk in most applications, both from direct exposure and also from secondary exposure through soil, water and air pollution.
Natural fibres are either extracted from plants from the leaf, the inner bark or fruit/seed crop, or from animal wool/hair, or insect cocoon or from mineral product. Plant sources of fibre include cotton, hemp, kenaf, ramie, sisal, flax, linen, lime, jute, seagrass, and abaca. Animal sources of fibre include sheep, alpaca, llama, goat, and camel, and can be either wool, hair or leather. Insect fibre is predominantly from silkworm cocoons.
The return to natural fibres to meet our fibre needs is only one part of the change that is required if we want to achieve sustainable living. We must also return to traditional methods of production - back to chemical free and organic production methods. Cotton is one of the most environmentally expensive fibres to produce. Cotton production is the second largest agricultural use of pesticides in the world with five of the nine top 'nasty' pesticides used. Cyanide, dicofol, naled, and propargite are commonly used in cotton production and these chemicals are known cancer-causing chemicals.
      Some of the popular fibres name are given below:
- Cotton.
- Bamboo
- Kenaf
- Ramie
- Abaca
- Flax
- Sisal
-Hemp
-Wool  etc.

GINNING PROCESS A FIRST PROCESS IN TEXTILE

INTRODUCTION TO GINNING  PROCESS: THE COTTON GINNING IS INVENT BY ELI WHITNEY IN 1793, HE MADE IT POSSIBLE TO PRODUCEW THIS CROP AT A MUCH MORE PRODUCTIVE RATE. GINNING MACHINE WAS CREATED TO EASE THE TREMENDOUS BURDENS OF THOSE WHO LABOURED TO PICK THE SEED FROM THE COTTON.MANY LABORED UNDER DIFFICULT CONDITIONS,AND EVEN UNDER GOOD CONDITIONS.ONE COULD  MANAGE TO CLEAN ONLY  ONE POUND OF THE CROP A  DAY.WITH HIS INVENTION WHITNEY MADE IT POSSIBLE TO CLEAN FIFTY POUNDS PER DAY.        WHITNEY HAD ARRIVEDT AT A BASIC DESIGN : A CYLINDER,THROUGH WHICH THE COTTON WAS FED, WITH WIRE TEETH.THE RAW COTTON FROM THE FIELD COULD BE FED THROUGH THE CYLINDER AND AS IT SPUN ROUND,THE TEETH WOULD PASS THROUGH SMALL SLITS IN A PIECE OF WOOD ,PULLING THE FIBRES OF THE COTTON ALL THE WAY THROUGH BUT LEAVING THE UNWANTED SEEDS BEHIND.            THIS CRUDELY MADE BOX, WITH A CYLINDER ,A CRANK, AND A RAW OF SAW  LIKE TEETH HAD MADE IT POSSIBLE TO CLEAN FIFTY TIMES MORE COTTON THAN COULD BE CLEANED BY HAND.       IT IS SAID TO HAVE BEGIN INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION, AND MADE AN IMMEDIATE IMPACT UPON INDUSTRY.

A BRIEF HISTORY ON TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY.

HISTORY OF TEXTILE:
Clothing and textiles have been enormously important throughout human history have their materials, production and techniques , cultural influences, and social significance .


       Textiles defined as felt or fibers made into and subsequently netted looped to make fabrics , appeared in the Middle East during the late From ancient times to the present day, methods of textile production have continually evolved, and the choices of textiles available have influenced how people carried their possessions , clothed themselves and decorated their surroundings. 



      Yarn, fabrics, and tools for spinning and weaving have been found among the earliest relics of human habitations. Linen fabrics dating from 5000 b.c. have been discovered in Egypt. Woolen textiles from the early Bronze Age in Scandinavia and Switzerland have also been found. Cotton has been spun and woven in India since 3000 b.c., and silk has been woven in China since at least 1000 b.c. About the 4th cent. a.d., Constantinople began to weave the raw silk imported from China. A century later silk culture spread to the Western countries, and textile making developed rapidly. By the 14th cent. splendid fabrics were being woven on the hand looms of the Mediterranean countries in practically all the basic structures known to modern artisans, and there has been no change in fundamental processes since that time, although methods and equipment have been radically altered.